Monday, January 27, 2014

Lacroix (Philadelpia) 01/2014

Lacroix is the restaurant on the second floor the upmarket Rittenhouse Hotel on Rittenhouse Square. A harpist was playing to the guests enjoying afternoon tea in the lobby.
 
That room overlooks an out door dining ares, currently covered in snow.
 
 A wall at the top of the stairs to the second floor has an entertaining fresco. 

Entry to the restaurant is via a narrow passage
 
Which opens up into an elongated room with a fine view over Rittenhouse Square.

During the week it is a fine dining restaurant but for Sunday lunch it is something else. What else? An extraordinary smorgasbord, under the guiding hand of Executive Chef Jon Cichon.
They run a first seating at 11.00 am and a second at 13.30, not that anyone needs to leave, running through to 4.00pm. With everything immediately available and no need to wait for servers it would be hard to eat for two hours. I'll run through the $69 menu with a some pic's and a few comments.


It's divided as follows:

RAW BAR SPECIALTIES
Sushi Maki: California, BBQ Eel, Spicy Tuna, Vegetable
Jumbo Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce
Smoked Trout, Peppered Mackerel

Assorted American Caviar, Traditional Accoutrements
House Smoked  Salmon, Classic Accompaniments
Chef's Selected Oysters Rhode Island were particularly good, large, good taste without being overwhelming
 
and ?Sheff River, improved by the variety of fish roe available.


HORS D'OEUVRES
Apple Soda, 
Casper, Golden Raisin Croissant
Butternut Squash Parfait, Yoghurt, Pumpkin Seed Granola, superb

Banana and Cinamon Smoothie

Pork Confit tart, Apple, Frisee

Whipped Riccota, Huckleberry Truffle Honey
Pork Belly Slider (a mini burger), Apple Parsnip Slaw
Branzino, Winter Citrus, White Chocolate
Rosemary Macaroon, Yuzu Cream
Sausage and Buttermilk Beignets
Squid Escabeche, Piquillo Pepper, Meyer Lemon, one of my favourites

Crawfish Vol-Au-Vent, Romesco Vinaigrette

SALADS
Fennel salad, Guanciale, Navel Orange, Pickled Chili
Heirloom Carrot Salad, Avacado, Lime, Fenugreek Vinaigrette
Edamame Hummus, Pickled Red Onion, Charred Scallion, Naan Bread
Hearts of Palm Salad, Black Bean, Truffle Vinaigrette
Gem Lettuce Salad, Dill, Cellery, Gribiche Dressing
Holland Leek, Crosnes, Dijon and Lemon Vinaigrette

HOT BUFFET from the CHEF'S TABLE in the KITCHEN


HAND CARVED MEAT AND FISH
Lavendar and Mustard Glazed Scottish Salmon
Roasted Venison Loin Pomegranite Molasses 
Giant Diver Scallop Sausage. This pic fails to properly show two of the tastiest dishes the scallop sausage was absolutely fantastic.

Leg of lamb, Smoked Paprika, Fennel Orange
Duck Magret.

A sample plate, clockwise from the top Diver sausage, bread, black sage, mushroom, duck, two hams from the charcuterie platter and lamb.


HOUSE CURED CHARCUTERIE STATION
Weekly Selection of Cured Meats, Pickles and Breads
 
SIGNATURE ENTREES
Crispy Duck Confit,Trofie Pasta, Cippolini Onion, Red Verjus

Applewood Smoked Bacon, House Made Pork Breakfast Sausage

Braised Endive, Celery Root, Prune, Parmesan

Black Kale, Sunchoke, Pepitas, Sheep's Milk Cheese
Baby White Turnips, Harissa Monkfish
Vietnamese Beef Broth, Quail Egg
Pain Perdu, Lingonberry Jam, Sage
English Muffin, Egg, Cantal, Pork Roll, Piperade
Cauliflower Pot au Creme, Golden Raisin
White Cheddar Grits, Andouille Sausage, Winter Greens

Sauteed Wild Mushrooms in Sauce Nage

Belgian Waffles with Fresh Mixed Berries
Whole Wheat Peanut Butter Pancakes
Potato Gnocchi, Escargot, Artichoke, Hazelnut
Fleur de Sel Potatoes

 DESSERT SELECTION FROM THE GARDEN TABLE
 
 
 A small selection


          Join us in the Kitchen for
             THE CHOCOLATE FOUNTAINS

They also offer a range of cocktails at a very reasonable $10
There is plenty of imagination in these dishes including interesting combinations of flavours and unusual ingredients. For example I have never seen crosnes outside of Paris. Not everything is exquisite, not everything is original but there is absolutely nothing one might complain about except too much of everything!
 Score:18 /20

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